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This article should be read in conjunction with that about the 1950s and 1960s Student and Master In the early 1950s the Colchester company of England introduced three new lathes, the Student, Triumph and Mascot, all styled to closely resemble each other and with a common and easily used control system but few interchangeable parts. The lathes were assembled in what was, during the 1950s. Colchester Triumph 1958 Restoration. (well the price was in Danish Kroner but i exchanged it to USD) i went to see it, and it turned up to be a Colchester / Clausing Triumph 7 1/2 x 48 (15 x 48 in the states) a bit rusty on the bedways, but nothing a bit of TLC wouldn't cure. That is a fantastic lathe,thank you for sharing from.
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- Plastic
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Colchester Triumph 7.5' (Round Head) Lathe
Hi,
I have a Colchester Triumph 7.5' Mk1 (Round Head) which is used every day in our machine shop. It's an old girl, but it is priceless to our business and is still used just as much as the other lathes.
Today however it's given up. We can still select all gears on top (two levers) but the main high / low gear lever on the front is the issue. In low box all is fine. In high box when running the spindle slowly moves in its correct direction. But it doesn't pick speed up and I can stop it by hand.
I've removed the head off the gearbox and noticed that the high speed driving gear (drives spindle tube through selector) is spinning freely on the shaft. See attached pictures and video.
http://81.138.85.180/~jim_cliff11/Triumph.mp4
I can’t find any tech drawings for this lathe. There is no grub screw, roll pin or bolt to hold the gear onto the shaft so I can only assume its fixed to the shaft through splines. And subsequently the splines have worn off? However, it went from working fine to not in the space of 5 minutes with no grinding or typical gearbox failure sounds.
Does anyone have any experience with these lathes, and would be kind enough to advise?
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I think its going to be a key,woodruff,p/n 005.............incidentally,different from a Student............anyway you have to remove the shaft ,so any repair will be obvious.The gears are not very hard ,and modification would be easy ,if needed.
Last edited by john.k; 04-06-2019 at 10:15 PM. Reason: correction
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OK,found a manual in less than 5 minutes,there is a small woodruff key in the shaft/gear,which has apparently failed...........
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Ok thanks for the replies all.
I'll make some time this week to strip the shaft out. John do you have a link to the manual? Thanks
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Help needed with Colchester Triumph 7 1/2
I set-up to cut 6tpi threads and it was cutting close to 12tpi. Everything was set correctly including changing the gear to 36T as it says on the plate. when I purchased the lathe, I was told that the large gear was replaced. Does anyone have a schematic showing all of the gearing with tooth numbers?
thanks
george - Stainless
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Do you have the old roundtop Triumph or the more modern square one,still being made in Taiwan? On the old roundtop,the large gear is only an idler,so provided your train isnt compound,it doesnt matter. .You will be able to get manuals etc for either at one of the forums,or from Lathes UK,for a price.Regards John.
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No knowlege of your experience and knowlege, so no insult intended.
Are you using a threading dial?
Reason I ask is that if you are confident everything else is set correctly it sounds like you could be double threading. Even numbers should work with any msrk on the dial, but it does have to hit a mark when the half nuts are closed, not between. Some worn lathes it's better to just pick a number and hit the same one every time.
That said, I posted on here a long time ago about a fellow woodworker asked me over to his shop, and while I was there, asked me to thread a backplate on his Sheldon lathe. First I had to make a T-nut on his mill to fit his new piston toolholder to the lathe, on his BP mill which he used to engrave clock faces. IOW, he had machine tools & had for many years, but did not really know how to use them. I set in right away making a plug and it was going along doing a great threading job when it occurred to me to check the pitch. He needed 8 tpi. The lathe was cutting (I'll make it up for now, you could look it up) something like 6-3/4tpi. Well the long and the short of it was there was a gear in the compound that would not normally be changed, that the lathe came to him set up with, and it would not thread what was on the gearchange charts. I took the part home and threaded it on my SB.
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I think the small idlers are one big gear and one small gear made into one. Exchange the two drive and leads screw gears and flip the small idler over to mate.
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Thanks for all the info. It seems the best advice was to dig up the old manual and re-read it. I have been cutting threads fine on this lathe until I needed the 6TPI which calls for a 32T 'drive' gear. The Colchester s drive train is fairly simple. 18T gear drives the 120T idler or swing gear. This drives the quick change gearbox which has a 42T gear and a 36T gear stacked. When the instructions says to change to the 36T dive gear for certain threads, you would think to flip the 42T and the 36T gear. Not so! You switch the 18T 'drive' gear with the 36T gear. I guess the quick change gearbox shaft is just a convenient place to store the extra gears. I am so relieved that I had the manual.
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Good to see things worked out for you. Make some curly Q's
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I do a lot of reproduction work for WWII collectors and re-enactors. At this time I am rolling threads onto a sheetmetal sleave. i have been cutting wood parts on my Chinese lathe and save the English lathe for the metal work.
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Just saved me the hassle of finding a manual! I have done the same as you on the QC gearbox shaft and wondered why I didnt get 4TPIOriginally Posted by tarawaThanks for all the info. It seems the best advice was to dig up the old manual and re-read it. I have been cutting threads fine on this lathe until I needed the 6TPI which calls for a 32T 'drive' gear. The Colchester s drive train is fairly simple. 18T gear drives the 120T idler or swing gear. This drives the quick change gearbox which has a 42T gear and a 36T gear stacked. When the instructions says to change to the 36T dive gear for certain threads, you would think to flip the 42T and the 36T gear. Not so! You switch the 18T 'drive' gear with the 36T gear. I guess the quick change gearbox shaft is just a convenient place to store the extra gears. I am so relieved that I had the manual.
Thanks Tarawa.
Cheers
Steve
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